Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Un/une faussaire

alfred-sisley_jpg!Portrait
French artist Alfred Sisley was born in Paris on October 30, 1839. His parents were British, so Sisley had their citizenship, but he lived most of his life in France. His father was a wealthy silk merchant and his mother was a connoisseur of classical music.
small-meadows-in-spring-1880
His parents intended him to pursue a career in business and they packed him off to London. After four years, he returned to Paris where he enrolled at the École des Beaux-Arts. While there, he became friends with Renoir, Monet, and Bazille. All of the group that became known as the Impressionists experimented en plein air with the effects of light and shadow. What made Sisley different was the fact that he was financially supported by his father.
bridge
This level of financial comfort came to an end after the 1870 France-Prussian War caused the failure of his father’s business. Sisley went from comfort to penury for the rest of his days. Occasionally, Sisley picked up a sponsor, which allowed him to complete a series of paintings of the Thames that are considered to be as good as Impressionism gets. Sisley’s skies are considered particularly impressive.
the-seine-at-bougival-1876-1
Sisley applied for French citizenship but was refused. A second request was pending when Sisley died of throat cancer on January 29, 1899.
banks-of-the-loing-at-moret-1892
His paintings gained in cachet and market value after his death. Today, they are held by some of the top museums in the world, including the Musée d’Orsay. One of his paintings, Allée des peupliers de Moret, has been stolen three times from its home at the Musée des Beaux-Arts in Nice. Once it was recovered in the sewer; once the museum’s curator was conviced with the theft along with two accomplices; most recently, the police found it in a van in Marseilles.
by-way-of-the-old-ferry-1880
His large body of work, about 900 oil paintings, and many pastels and drawings, has made him one of the most frequently copied artists by scammers who try to pass a work off as “newly discovered” Sisley. The word for a forger is un/une faussaire (uhn/oon foesare). It’s one of a small group of French words that can be either masculine or feminine. Forgery is an equal opportunity crime.

Alfred Sisley
v

Sunday, October 27, 2013

Le Faubourg

Epicerie2


After our great crêpes at Le Billig on rue St. Jean in Québec, we passed a delightful afternoon exploring the other shops that line this charming street outside the stone wall of the Old Town. It feels a little like Soho in its bohemian days before the chain stores moved in. The entire neighborhood is named after the street and is known as Le Faubourg Saint-Jean (luh foe-boorg  sahn zjohn). A faubourg refers to part of a city on the outskirts. In this case, le faubourg is outside of the city wall. Rue St. Jean continues within the wall as well, connected to it by la Porte Saint-Jean but it’s le faubourg that is the more charming part.
Epicerie
Epicerie3

Our first find was the Épicerie Européene, 560 rue St. Jean. If you want to pick up a reminder of your trip for yourself or a gift for a foodie friend, this is the place to go. The goods are enticing and the displays are perhaps even more so. Teas from Kusmi in Paris, exotic oils, and fleur de sel de Guérande are just some of their offerings. The business has been around since 1959, but moved to a larger spot on the street a few years ago. The shop gleams with abundant natural light and cheery yellow walls.

cafe2
Brûlerie de Café de Québec, 575 rue St. Jean, is the place to go for your afternoon cup of pick-me-up. The beans are roasted on site in small batches and the selection is impressive.
seraphin

My daughter is a petite grad student. She found plenty of interesting clothes for twenty-somethings at Boutique Séraphin at 738 rue St. Jean. It was at this point that my husband wore out and went back to the hotel for a nap. No stamina at all.
jupon presse

Jupon Pressé, 790 rue St. Jean, is a relatively new store featuring retro-style clothing for women, especially dresses, as well as accessories to wear and for the home.  They had a lot of fun merchandise and it was hard to resist temptation.
esther_p_boutique_01

Finally, I really liked the boutique Esther P, 873 rue St. Jean. Housed in a beautiful building, this is an artfully curated collection of prestige brands, such as Equipment and Alice + Olivia. Accessories and shoes are on hand to complete the look.  I loved a beautiful cranberry cashmere robe. What luxury to snuggle by a fire wrapped in its cozy folds!

Saint Jean
If you have the opportunity to visit Québec City, I hope you’ll have the opportunity to spend some time in le Faubourg Saint-Jean. We had such a delightful afternoon there, and I hope that you will too.

 




Thursday, October 24, 2013

Le Billig

Le Billig8
I think our happiest food discovery while we were in Québec City was Le Billig crêperie, located at 526, rue Saint-Jean, just down the road from the Hobbit bistro. Our daughter, a foodie, found it on Yelp.com. We went there for a late lunch, but the unpretentious little crêperie was still quite full. The waitress pulled two little tables together on a perch a few steps above the main dining area to make a place for us.
Le Billig3

I love crêpes. Crêpes in Paris. Crêpes in New York. Crêpes on restaurants. Crêpes from street vendors. But most of all, crêpes in Brittany, their true home. I love buckwheat crêpes, known as gallettes, used for savory, main-course crêpes. And I love dessert crêpes filled with fruit, or Nutella, topped with nuts. So, how to choose a crêpe from among the tempting options at Le Billig? I wanted a dinner crêpe AND a dessert crêpe. I choose a crêpe that mixed elements of both – sliced ripe black figs, mozzarella cheese, basil, pecans, and a drizzle of a balsamic reduction. Sincerely, it was one of the best I have ever had. My husband had the classic smoked salmon crêpe, finished with crème fraîche, capers, and lemon. I wasn’t surprised to learn that the chef was Breton. These crêpes were simply excellent and the price was extremely reasonable.
Le Billig5

So my advice to you is that, if you are in Quebec City, venture a few blocks outside the encircling arms of the stone wall when it comes to meal times. The best meals we had were just outside of the highly frequented tourist zone. Within the walls, there were even crêperies where the staff was forced to wear embarrassing faux-Breton outfits. Why settle for faux when you can have a real Breton cook for you just a few steps away?
Le Billig6

One question remains: what is a billig? It’s the name in the Breton language for the heavy, round cooking surface where the humble crêpe is born. In more traditional French, it’s a galétière, galettoire, or crêpière. Traditionally, the billig was placed on a metal tripod that allowed it to be placed right in the fire. And for another essential crêpe word, un rozell is the wooden blade that evenly spreads the batter across le billig for that perfect, crisp crêpe. And now I’m hungry for a crêpe. If only Le Billig was always around the corner!


 

Monday, October 21, 2013

Se reposer sur ses lauriers

Chateau2
Lately, I’ve been writing about our late summer trip to Québec City. You can’t think of Québec without also thinking of the Château Frontenac, the huge hotel that dominates the skyline. It was designed by American architect Bruce Price at the end of the 19th century. It was one of a series of hotels built to look like European châteaux by the Canadian Pacific Railway in order to encourage rail tourism by the wealthy. It has been expanded on over the years. The hotel was named after Louis de Buade, Count of Frontenac, a 17th century governor of New France. It was the site of a 1943 war conference between Churchill, Roosevelt, and Canadian Prime Minister Mackenzie King. A decade later, it was used as the location for a Hitchcock film, I Confess.
chateau6

The hotel was sold to the Fairmont group in 2001 and the hotel was re-baptized Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. The iconic hotel was sold again in 2011 and a multi-million dollar roof replacement project got underway. The work was still in progress when we visited.
tea2

Over the years, going out for afternoon tea has been a special treat for our family and we thought that tea at the Château Frontenac would be a great way to mark our time in Québec. I must confess to being a little disappointed. The Café de la Terrace had a wonderful view overlooking the Terrace de Dufferin. It was, however, in need of restoration, although probably not as much as the roof. The banquettes were a little shabby and worn. I couldn’t fault the quality of the service, however.
tea3

Our waiter was most attentive throughout our tea time. He started off by having us inhale the fragrance of a dozen canisters of tea and talked about the attributes of each. The weather was cool and damp while we were in Québec, so opted for hot chocolate to warm myself up. That was my mistake. The chocolate wasn’t very good and it wasn’t hot, but my husband and daughter were pleased with their tea selections.
tea4

The tiered plate was layered with sandwiches below and then scones and tiny cakes and other sweet morsels above. The presentation was very attractive, but the flavor and freshness wasn’t always of the highest quality. The paté reminded me of Underwood’s Deviled Ham (yuck!) from lunch boxes of old. I felt like that the sandwiches had been prepared well in advance and left to dry out. The scones were quite delicious, but mascarpone cheese is not clotted cream! The bite-sized cakes were prettier than they were flavorful.
Chateau3

Frankly, I just didn’t think this high tea was worth $37 CDN a person. I’ve had far nicer teas for a much more reasonable price. It may be one of the most beautiful hotels out there, but I think they’re resting on their laurels a bit. This expression in French is “se reposer sur ses lauriers” (suh rep-o-zay soor say lor-e-ay). I had been really looking forward to a special event at this landmark property, and I’m sorry to give it such a tepid review.
Frommer’s Montreal and Quebec City

Le flétan poêlé (onequalitythefinest.com)

Friday, October 18, 2013

l’Escalier casse-cou

Petit Champlain
Lately, I’ve been writing about our trip to Québec City. Vieux-Québec is the oldest part of the city within the ramparts. The first time I visited it, I felt like I was in Saint-Malo, due to the stone buildings and narrow streets that wend their way through town. It’s no wonder it was been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Petit Champlain2
The Old Town is further divided into the Upper and Lower Town. The two are joined by l’Escalier casse-cou (les-kal-e-ay kass koo), or “Breakneck stairs,” so named for their intimidating steepness. There is, however, also a funicular if you don’t do stairs. Nestled near the Saint Lawrence River, the Basse-Ville, or Lower Town, is the oldest commercial district in the New World. This is where you will find one of the prettiest neighborhoods, le Petit Champlain, home to our favorite breakfast stop as well as many charming boutiques. (There are also a vast number of tacky T-shirt and souvenir shops, but they’re rather like fruit flies – pesky and prolific, and drawn to the sweetness of tourists’ wallets.)  You will also find the historic l’église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires (the church of Our Lady of Victories) on the Place Royale, the port, and a highly detailed mural of the history of the city.
Petit Champlain5
Also in the Lower Town, but on the other side of the promontory facing the port is rue Saint-Paul. We liked it’s slightly bohemian flavor of independent coffee shops, antique shops, and artisans’ boutiques.
cafes du soleil
The Upper Town, or Haute Ville, was always the governmental and administrative hub of the city, due to its strategic perch high above the river. Probably the most famous and recognizable building in the city is the imposing Chateau Frontenac, a rather splendid historic hotel. I’ll talk about it in detail another day. The Terrace Dufferin is a broad boardwalk in front of the hotel that provides a wonderful vista over the river. Near the Chateau, on the other side, is the basilica Notre-Dame de Québec.
church
Around each corner, in fact, there is a pretty streetscape, a charming shop, or an enticing restaurant. Whether you visit in October for the fall color, in February for the festivities of Carnaval, or in summer to enjoy the long days before watching the moon rise over this 405-year-old city, I’m sure you’ll be as enchanted as we were.

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      Tuesday, October 15, 2013

      Le soie


      scarf 1
      One of the most charming areas in Québec City is le Petit-Champlain. It’s full of charming little boutiques where you can find something special for yourself or as a gift. One of the prettiest boutiques is Le Soierie Huo, filled with beautiful, hand-painted scarves.
      scarf5

      Dominique Huot and Hugues Beaulieu create the majority of the colorful squares at their home in nearby Lévis but can often be found painting in their shop at 91, rue du Petit-Champlain. Le soie (luh swah) means “silk” and you will certainly find plenty of beautiful silk scarves here, but you will also find fine woolen ones as well as men’s ties.
      scarf6

      The scarves are a riot of colors. Some resemble a watercolor painting while others feature hand-painted flowers or stenciled leaves. Adding salt to the painted surface gives a dappled edge.
      scarf2
       

      Many of the scarves feature a genius clip in a matching fabric. If you would like to wear a scarf with the insouciance of a française but feel that you can never pull it off, the clip will remake how you feel about yourself. They slip a handy guide for a variety of ways to wear your scarf into each bag. If a visit to Québec City isn’t in your near future, you can order on-line here.
      512hvTId%2BYL__SL75_ Frommer’s Montreal and Quebec City


      Saturday, October 12, 2013

      Virgule


      roger-vivier-scoop
      Virgule, Etc. is the name of the retrospective exhibit at the Palais de Tokyo that celebrates the contributions of French shoe designer Roger Vivier. The exhibit is set up as though it were a permanent museum dedicated to shoes. Intermingled with shoes from the company’s archives, the musée de la chaussure in Romans, France, the Bata shoe museum in Toronto, and the Metropolitan in New York are copies of works from the Louvre or the Prado that inspired the designer.
      exposition-roger-vivier-palais-de-tokyo_4059027 

      Vivier began his career in the 30s and the 140 pairs of shoes in the exhibit follow the arc of his designs. He saw shoes as sculpture and he never ceased to question how the basic design could be tweaked. “Lines have always enthralled me,” he said. “I’ll re-sketch my drawing five hundred times to check the exactness of the idea and respect the foot’s architecture.”
      roger-vivier-evening-boot-1961-vogue-30jul13-getty_b

      The heel of a shoe received Vivier’s particular attention. He launched the stiletto in 1954, the “Etrave” in1958, and the “Choc” in1959. But is it the “Virgule” (veergool) that is most indelibly associated with the brand since it first punctuated a pump in 1963 when Vivier launched his own brand. Prior to that, he had collaborated with Christian Dior and other designers.
      Roger-Vivier-Palais-Tokyo-04

      Some of the well-heeled women who have worn Vivier’s creations include Queen Elizabeth for her coronation, the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Soraya of Iran, Marlène Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, Jeanne Moreau, Brigitte Bardot, and Catherine Deneuve. She wore his flats with the square silver buckle in her film “Belle du Jour” and suddenly flats were as sexy as high heels.
      talons-roger-vivier-dessins-expo-palais-de-tokyo
      After Vivier’s death, the popularity of the shoes declined. But creative director Bruno Frisoni gave the heels a lift when he took over in 2002. And when the embodiment of Parisian chic, Inès de la Fressange, began kicking up her heels as the brand ambassador, Roger Vivier was re-born. Now a whole new generation of style icons, such Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, Cate Blanchett, Anne Hathaway, Nicole Kidman and Julia Roberts are regularly photographed wearing Roger Vivier shoes.

      PALAIS DE TOKYO
      13, avenue du Président Wilson,
      75 116 Paris

      From now until October 21 - 12:00 to 21:00
      From October 23 to November 18 - 12:00 to midnight

       

      Wednesday, October 9, 2013

      Il sait tout, mais il manque d'inexpérience


      saint_saens1
      French composer Charles-Camille Saint-Saëns was born in Paris on October 9, 1835. His father died while he was a tiny infant, leaving him to be raised by his mother and a great-aunt. It was this aunt who introduced him to the piano when he was only two. The little prodigy was reading and writing at age 3 and had a solid grounding in Latin by age seven. He composed his first piece for the piano at age four. His first public concert was at age seven. This was no little music-class recital; he accompanied a Beethoven violin sonata! Saint-Saëns first solo recital at age ten was at the mythic Salle Pleyel. The program featured a full Mozart Piano Concerto, among other pieces. For his encore, he said he would play ANY of Beethoven’s piano sonatas WITHOUT music! This feat made Saint-Saëns a sensation across Europe and even in the United States.
      saint_saens_02

      Saint-Saëns studied organ and composition at the Conservatoire de Paris. The symphonies he composed while still a student were hailed by the music community. Hector Berlioz wittily said, Il sait tout, mais il manque d'inexpérience (eel seh too, meh eel mahnk din-ex-pear-e-anse), which means "He knows everything, but lacks inexperience." To make a living, he played the organ at various Paris churches, including many years at the keyboard at la Madeleine where he IMPROVISED a new composition each week. In addition to being a musical genius, he was also passionate about many branches of science, philosophy, and the decoration of Roman theaters. He also wrote plays and poetry.
      camille_saint_saens3

      The personal life of Saint-Saëns was dramatic and tragic. He married a young woman who was half his age and they had two sons together. The boys died within a few weeks of each other: one of a childhood disease, the other due to a fall from a window. Saint-Saëns saw the disaster unfold, but he was unable to save the child. The composer blamed his wife; one day, he simply walked away. The couple separated, but never divorced. He rambled from one exotic country to the next, and wrote his travel memoirs under the penname “Sannois.” He eventually settled in Algiers where he died of pneumonia on December 16, 1921. His body was brought back to France where Saint-Saëns was honored with a state funeral at the church where he played the organ for so many years. All told, he composed over 300 pieces. Ironically, his greatest musical triumph, The Carnival of the Animals, was only published in full after his death, because he thought it would undermine his reputation as a serious composer.


       

      Sunday, October 6, 2013

      Le Roi Citoyen

      Louis-Philippe_refuse_la_couronne_de_Belgique
       
      Quick. Name the last French king.
       
      If you said Louis XVI, you’d be wrong. The final king of the French, Louis Philippe I, was born on October 6, 1773 and reigned from 1830 to 1848. He was a young man during the turbulence of the Terror. As a member of the Bourbon line, Louis Philippe fled abroad, where he lived in exile in various European cities for twenty-one years.
       
      
      lou-phil
       
      His position was so precarious in those early months of the Terror that he moved on every two days. Louis Philippe finally got a job under an assumed name as a teacher in a boys’ boarding school. His career academic ended when he got the headmaster’s cook pregnant. He repeated this routine when living under another false name with a Lutheran minister, this time seducing the vicar’s housekeeper, who was also his sister-in-law. He left her with another child when he moved on.
       
      Silver five-franc coin featuring Louis Philipp...
       
       
      Then Louis Philippe moved to the United States, first Philadelphia, where he met up with his two brothers, then New York City, and then Boston. I had clam chowder at the Union Oyster House, where the future king once lived as a lodger while he taught French lessons. While in the United States, he met with many American luminaries of their Revolution, including George Washington. While trying to make their way back to France, the brothers were intercepted and bounced from Cuba, to the Bahamas, and then to Nova Scotia. There he met the Duke of Kent with whom he struck up a lasting friendship. He and his brothers spent the next fifteen years in England. His proposal of marriage to a daughter or the king was rejected on the basis of his religion, notwithstanding the willingness of the princess. The following year, his heart was sufficiently mended to wed the princess of Naples and Sicily, with whom he had ten children.
       
      Louis-Philippe_de_Bourbon_crop
       
      After Napoleon’s abdication, it was safe for Louis Philippe to return to France. His cousin was reigning as Louis XVIII under the Bourbon Restoration. He was part of the royal court, but he took the part of the more liberal faction who opposed Louis XVIII. He was, however, on much better terms with Charles X, the king’s brother who succeeded him on the throne in 1824.
       
      louis-Philippe
       
      
      Charles was overthrown in 1830. He named his 10-year-old grandson as his successor, but appointed Louis Philippe regent for the purpose to advancing this objective. Louis Philippe did not do this, however, choosing instead to advance his own chances. He served as regent for only eleven days, before being proclaimed king in his own right. It was the turn of Charles and his grandson to live in exile in England.
       
      Louis Philippe d'Orléans, as Duke of Chartres,...
       
      You may have noticed at the beginning that I said that Louis Philippe was the king of the French, not the king of France. This distinction was meaningful. Louis Philippe was the king of the people, not a territory. This distinguished Louis Philippe from his predecessor and aligned him with the reforms of the Constitution of 1791 that ended absolutist reign. His simple style of living earned him early popularity and the title of the “bourgeois monarch” and le Roi Citoyen (luh rwah sea-toy-en), or “the Citizen King.” But despite the modest appearances, his backing came from the wealthy, and under his reign the condition of the poor worsened considerably. This inequality led to the Revolution of 1848 and Louis Philippe’s abdication. He traveled under the name “Mr. Smith” in a hired cab and high-tailed it back to England. He, too, tried to put his grandson on the throne in his place. The National Assembly, however, had had enough of kings for the moment and opted for Louis Napoléon Bonaparte, who became Emperor Napoléon III.
       
      The famous 1831 caricature of Louis Philippe t...
       
      Louis Philippe died in exile on August 26, 1850. His remains were eventually returned to France and placed in the family chapel. His descendants, the Counts of Paris, are supported by Royalist factions who even today would like to see a monarch on the throne of France. But unless and until that chapter gets written, Louis Philippe was the last French king.